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ISSUE 43 FW23

KALEIDOSCOPE's Fall/Winter 2023 issue launches with a set of six covers. Featuring Sampha, Alex Katz, Harmony Korine, a report into the metamorphosis of denim, a photo reportage by Dexter Navy, and a limited-edition cover by Isa Genzken.

Also featured in this issue: London-based band Bar Italia (photography by Jessica Madavo and interview by Conor McTernan), the archives of Hysteric Glamour (photography by Lorenzo Dalbosco and interview by Akio Kunisawa), Japanese underground illustrator Yoshitaka Amano (words by Alex Shulan), Marseille-based artist Sara Sadik (photography by Nicolas Poillot and interview by Daria Miricola), a survey about Japan’s new hip-hop scene starring Tohji (photography by Taito Itateyama and words by Ashley Ogawa Clarke), Richard Prince’s new book “The Entertainers” (words by Brad Phillips), “New Art: London” (featuring Adam Farah-Saad, Lenard Giller, Charlie Osborne, R.I.P. Germain, and Olukemi Ljiadu photographed by Bolade Banjo and interviewed by Ben Broome).

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FROM THE CURRENT ISSUE

ESCAPE TO MIAMI

The most southernly city in the US, Miami exists in the tropical recesses of the American imagination: land of celebrity, thunderstorms, Tony Montana, and Art Deco architecture. Here, we meet the latest generation of Miamians—committed radicals in the fields of art, fashion, and music, who are dreaming up new narratives for the city they call home.

NEW ART: LONDON 

The art world’s compulsion to categorize by the yardstick of “hot or not” has historically been the driving force behind the market and the gallery system. Commerce is intertwined with this metric, spurred on by the insatiable appetite to find talented young things to build up. This system is uninteresting: what’s in vogue rarely reflects those operating at the cutting edge. Who are those young emerging artists making work against all odds—work that is difficult and costly to make, store, exhibit, move, and sell? These five individuals typify this path. Working across video, sound, installation, and sculpture, they march onwards, carving out their own niche—exhibiting in empty shop spaces one day and major institutions the next. For them, making is guided by urgency, and persistence is motivated by blind faith.

SARA SADIK 

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KALEIDOSCOPE hosted a solo exhibition by Marseille-based artist Sara Sadik (b. 1994, Bordeaux), in November 2023 at Spazio Maiocchi in Milan, with the support of Slam Jam. Inspired by videogames, anime, science fiction, and French rap, Sara Sadik’s work explores the reality and fantasies of France’s Maghrebi youth, addressing issues of adolescence, masculinity, and social mythologies. Her work across video, performance, and installation often centers on male characters, using computer-generated scenarios to transform their condition of marginalization into something optimistic and poetic.

FROM THE SHOP

FROM THE ARCHIVE

MANIFESTO

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In 2023, from June 22 to June 24 during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, KALEIDOSCOPE and GOAT presented the new edition of our annual arts and culture festival, MANIFESTO. Against the unique setting of the French Communist Party building, a modern architectural landmark designed by legendary Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, the festival will bring together visionary creators from different areas of culture across three days of art, fashion and sound. The 2024 edition will run from June 21 to June 23.

CAPSULE PLAZA

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In April 2023, a year after the launch of the magazine, Capsule introduced Capsule Plaza, a new initiative that infuses new energy into Milan Design Week by redefining the design showcase format. A hybrid between a fair and a collective exhibition, Capsule Plaza brings together designers and companies from various creative fields, bridging industry and culture with a bold curation that spans interiors and architecture, beauty and technology, ecology and craft. The 2024 edition will run from April 15 to April 21.

CAT POWER

CAT POWER

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In a career stretching over 30 years, Chan Marshall, under the moniker of Cat Power, has established herself as one of the most acclaimed singer/songwriters of the century, creating some of the most emotionally powerful music ever recorded. Among her talents, she can turn cover versions into moments of transcendent beauty.

FELIX PETTY

I’d like to talk with you about Miami and Bob Dylan.

CAT POWER

No one ever wants to talk about Miami.

FP

Do they not?

CP

I’ve lived there for 22 years, and every time someone asks me—even if I’ve known them for 22 years, they ask me—“Where are you living now?” my answer is always the same: I say, “Miami,” and they say, “Miami?” Like I said I live on the moon. And it kind of is like living on the moon.

FP

I was watching an old interview of yours yesterday, the one with Ian Svenonius ...

CP

Oh my God. All my friends are in the audience, and I didn’t realize it was being recorded. I was trying to fuck with Ian but I was hopped up on antidepressants. I was sober. I was dating a boxer. I’m just acting like a fucking buffoon.

FP

But there was a moment in this where—it’s almost the same question—he says, “Where are you living now?” And you say, “Miami,” and it’s like he thinks you’re living on the moon. But then you say, “Living in Miami is like being in Manhattan after a nuclear war.” Which I thought was a nice description of the city.

CP

I mean like 60 years after—when the fall-out’s gone, most of the people are dead, the water’s clear again, everything got rebuilt smaller. It’s like the little version of Manhattan, but with sun and wildlife and you can walk everywhere.

FP

You grew up in the South, right? Would you class Miami as a Southern city? Because it’s not, really.

CP

No, absolutely not. That’s why I moved there. Back then, all those buildings that you see on South Beach, like the Delano, the Raleigh, and the Shore Club, they were all abandoned. They were all boarded up. There were no luxury hotels then. There was much less tourism. It was only two-story deco buildings. There were tons of empty lots all over South Beach. It was like Manhattan after the nuclear war! And now it’s like the oligarchs’ playground. It’s pretty distressing in that way. But the local people are still there. They haven’t been bought out. They still own the condos that they were born in.

FP

Do you feel like a local now that you’ve been there for so long?

CP

Oh, absolutely local. When people ask where I’m from, I always say Atlanta. And I still have the same little rent-controlled room that I’ve rented for 32 years here in New York City, which I’ve had since I was 20. It’s very cozy, and I love it. I thank all the stars because, without the education from New York City, without having been able to be safe in New York City and have a safe roof over my head here, I don’t know where I would’ve ended up. New York gave me the tools to travel the world. Once I lived here and figured out how to live here and how to work here, all that individual spirit and self-sufficiency, then I was able to see the world. I really have so much gratitude for New York City.
That’s one reason why I cite Miami as being the mini New York City, or the cherry on top of the ideal that New York represents. Because Miami has a thriving art scene. They make shit happen like they do here, because there’s more space, there’s more places, there’s more accessibility in Miami because of the culturally diverse life. You can infiltrate somewhere and make friends and try to community up together. It’s very easy there to be friendly. Everybody’s coming from this diaspora, like New York and like London. It’s a melting pot, which is what I mean when I say it’s like Manhattan. The class system is completely ... You really see it more in other towns in America. Right across the railroad tracks, you’ll see the disparity between the racial divisions of the class system and the color lines. But in Miami, it’s a little more mixed.

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FP

Both are cities of refuge, where you might be an outsider in a small town or somewhere else, but it’s like the city is a space of reinvention almost. You come in as one person, or not even as a person, and you creatively get molded into ideally who you are meant to be.

CP

Well, you get molded because of the community there.

FP

I was reading another older interview, and you were saying that your son doesn’t like you singing beautiful music, because he sees that it makes you sad. I thought this was the most innocent but perfect and beautiful reaction to music, but also your music specifically. There’s something so beautiful and emotional that almost allows you to feel sad in this safe way.

CP

To be your authentic self, which is a thousand shades of senses, nuances, feelings, thoughts, and memories: I think that’s what music has done for me since I’ve been born.
I was in the incubator until I was three months old; I was very, very sick. My grandmother actually got me from the hospital and raised me until I was five. But I think that’s why I’m a very intense person. Because I was born and then completely alienated. My first few months of life were completely separated without touch—I couldn’t see; I couldn’t hear; I had pus in my throat and eyes and ears; my whole head was infected.

FP

Oh, shit.

CP

Gosh, I had no idea what happened, but I’m glad it did.

FP

Maybe this is a good point then to transition into talking about the new album and Bob Dylan.

CP

Yeah. Okay.

FP

And maybe an opening question about this is: To me, some of your covers and your approach to covers is usually more emotional, but the idea of recreating a whole concert is quite conceptual—

CP

Well, maybe to you it is. When you’re singing Bob Dylan live on stage at the Royal Albert Hall, it’s fucking intense and emotional. And to think that I have the balls to even attempt such blasphemy.

FP

Where did the idea to cover the whole concert come from?

CP

I got an offer to play at the Royal Albert Hall. And I’ve never stepped inside of that building, and the only reason I know it is because of that Bob Dylan documentary Don’t Look Back, by Pennebaker, which I saw when I was, like, 19 and fell in love with—I’d always been a Bob Dylan fan, but when I saw that documentary, it was different. I fell in love with this person in that movie. That’s what I felt. I felt I was in love with him in my heart. So when I saw the Royal Albert Hall for the first time, I lost my fucking mind. It felt really magical to be standing there, like I was at Templeor something.

FP

And that concert occupies an almost Big Bang kind of moment in musical history: it’s the central point, the epicenter. It’s the beginning of everything.

CP

And that moment, when he chose to go electric, when he realized he’s not going to change the world going to protests all the time. He knew real changes aren’t going to happen sitting around with these fucking same old people doing the same old songs. So he shook them up. Everybody had their formula. Children of the 50s were given their formula, their box to stay in. When he went electric, it was like emotional bloodshed. It fucking changed the world. Everybody got turned on. Everybody had something to say.
That’s why I loved him so much, because he was able to figure out a way to sing songs that woke people up. And Bob was able to give this sort of individual power of critical thinking to a ton of young people’s minds.
And that was necessary at that moment in time, especially politically in America. Then the revolution popped off and people were like, “We’re not going to go to Vietnam.” Standing up—people that would never have gone to a protest all started joining in the movement, and it was a big moment in history.

FP

How did it actually feel, on the stage at the Royal Albert Hall, being Bob Dylan, performing those songs?

CP

I will never be Bob Dylan; I’ll never want to be Bob Dylan; I’ll never try to be Bob Dylan. How did it feel as a 51-year-old lady? It felt like I had been an outfielder or a pinch hitter that had a wounded elbow my whole career, and then, holy shit, all the players are together. Everybody’s in the same field, and we’re all fucking winning from the beginning of the game till the end of the game. We’re all on the same team; we’re all fuck- ing getting home runs, grand slams: everybody’s a pinch hitter; everybody’s a hundred-mile-an-hour pitcher. No fucking referees. The referees take their shirts off. It felt like we all were on the same team, and we all won. It felt like everybody in that room were like little kids at kindergarten that took over the school. That's how it felt. It felt like we were all on the school bus having a fucking party at five years old, and some five-year-old was driving the bus, and we were all just having fun. It just felt like a huge party. It felt like we were all on the same page.

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Charlyn Marie Marshall (b. 1972, Atlanta), better known by her stage name Cat Power, is an American singer-songwriter, musician, and model. In late 2023 she released her latest album Cat Power Sings Dylan.
Felix Petty is a London-based editor and head of content of KALEIDOSCOPE.