OUT NOW

ISSUE 43 FW23

KALEIDOSCOPE's Fall/Winter 2023 issue launches with a set of six covers. Featuring Sampha, Alex Katz, Harmony Korine, a report into the metamorphosis of denim, a photo reportage by Dexter Navy, and a limited-edition cover by Isa Genzken.

Also featured in this issue: London-based band Bar Italia (photography by Jessica Madavo and interview by Conor McTernan), the archives of Hysteric Glamour (photography by Lorenzo Dalbosco and interview by Akio Kunisawa), Japanese underground illustrator Yoshitaka Amano (words by Alex Shulan), Marseille-based artist Sara Sadik (photography by Nicolas Poillot and interview by Daria Miricola), a survey about Japan’s new hip-hop scene starring Tohji (photography by Taito Itateyama and words by Ashley Ogawa Clarke), Richard Prince’s new book “The Entertainers” (words by Brad Phillips), “New Art: London” (featuring Adam Farah-Saad, Lenard Giller, Charlie Osborne, R.I.P. Germain, and Olukemi Ljiadu photographed by Bolade Banjo and interviewed by Ben Broome).

K43 Spreads 01
K43 Spreads 02
K43 Spreads 03
K43 Spreads 04
K43 Spreads 05
K43 Spreads 07
K43 Spreads 08
K43 Spreads 09
K43 Spreads 10
K43 Spreads 11
K43 Spreads 12
K43 Spreads 13
K43 Spreads 14
K43 Spreads 15
K43 Spreads 17
K43 Spreads 18
K43 Spreads 19
K43 Spreads 20
K43 Spreads 21
K43 Spreads 22
K43 Spreads 23
K43 Spreads 24

FROM THE CURRENT ISSUE

ESCAPE TO MIAMI

The most southernly city in the US, Miami exists in the tropical recesses of the American imagination: land of celebrity, thunderstorms, Tony Montana, and Art Deco architecture. Here, we meet the latest generation of Miamians—committed radicals in the fields of art, fashion, and music, who are dreaming up new narratives for the city they call home.

NEW ART: LONDON 

The art world’s compulsion to categorize by the yardstick of “hot or not” has historically been the driving force behind the market and the gallery system. Commerce is intertwined with this metric, spurred on by the insatiable appetite to find talented young things to build up. This system is uninteresting: what’s in vogue rarely reflects those operating at the cutting edge. Who are those young emerging artists making work against all odds—work that is difficult and costly to make, store, exhibit, move, and sell? These five individuals typify this path. Working across video, sound, installation, and sculpture, they march onwards, carving out their own niche—exhibiting in empty shop spaces one day and major institutions the next. For them, making is guided by urgency, and persistence is motivated by blind faith.

SARA SADIK 

SM sarasadik DSC8385
SM sarasadik DSC8333 1
SM sarasadik DSC8329
SM sarasadik DSC8405 2

KALEIDOSCOPE hosted a solo exhibition by Marseille-based artist Sara Sadik (b. 1994, Bordeaux), in November 2023 at Spazio Maiocchi in Milan, with the support of Slam Jam. Inspired by videogames, anime, science fiction, and French rap, Sara Sadik’s work explores the reality and fantasies of France’s Maghrebi youth, addressing issues of adolescence, masculinity, and social mythologies. Her work across video, performance, and installation often centers on male characters, using computer-generated scenarios to transform their condition of marginalization into something optimistic and poetic.

FROM THE SHOP

Fuct
ERIK BRUNETTI: OVAL PARODY
50 EUR
Giger Sorayama
80 EUR
TOBIAS SPICHTIG PAINTINGS
45 EUR

FROM THE ARCHIVE

MANIFESTO

6
Kaleidoscope manifesto23 DSC2610
V3 B8720
Kaleidoscope manifesto23 DSC3121
3
Kaleidoscope manifesto23 DSC2823
8
Kaleidoscope manifesto23 DSC2477
9
Kaleidoscope manifesto23 DSC3747
7
Kaleidoscope manifesto23 DSC2736
4

In 2023, from June 22 to June 24 during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, KALEIDOSCOPE and GOAT presented the new edition of our annual arts and culture festival, MANIFESTO. Against the unique setting of the French Communist Party building, a modern architectural landmark designed by legendary Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, the festival will bring together visionary creators from different areas of culture across three days of art, fashion and sound. The 2024 edition will run from June 21 to June 23.

CAPSULE PLAZA

XL 1
TALKS 3
Beirut
Capsule NL 2404 5
Tacchini1
Bookshop
Capsule NL 2404 1
Listening 2
Dinner 2
Talks
Bar
Popupshop
Listening
Gufram
Talks

In April 2023, a year after the launch of the magazine, Capsule introduced Capsule Plaza, a new initiative that infuses new energy into Milan Design Week by redefining the design showcase format. A hybrid between a fair and a collective exhibition, Capsule Plaza brings together designers and companies from various creative fields, bridging industry and culture with a bold curation that spans interiors and architecture, beauty and technology, ecology and craft. The 2024 edition will run from April 15 to April 21.

THE DOLLS

AUREL SCHMIDT

TEXT BY SOPHIE KEMP

SP 9122 full

At once precious and repellant, Aurel Schmidt’s ongoing series of doll drawings tell a story about New York, the art world, and the hell of being a pretty young thing.

A very long time ago, in another dimension, there were 17 girls, and they all lived in a shipping container on the East River in a far-away land called New Yawk, New Yawk. In this very long time ago, the sun was always at high noon, and everyone was always chitchatting about sexual freedom. As in: you could suck a guy’s dick in front of a bar called Ancient Clandestino. As in: you could suck a guy’s dick in front of a restaurant called Ancient Lucien. As in: when you looked at the sun, which was always at high noon, there was comfort in that. As in: the value of the dollar was good, and the secret brotherhood known as the Securities Exchange Commission was protecting us all. As in: if you are one of the 17 girls who lived in a shipping container on the East River, everyone gave you the appellation Doll. No one called you by the name mommy and daddy gave you when you were a small fry being born of the womb. You were Doll.

To be called Doll was considered to be one of the best appellations you could get at this time. Better than slut. Better than Miss. Better than Lil’ Fucker. Better than “Hey sugar, do you have a kiss for daddy?” The Dolls acknowledged that they were lucky. That they had hit the jackpot. That they got to saucily saunter through the streets of New Yawk, New Yawk, and it was true that they looked so good. This is what they were doing today: Braiding each other’s hair. Painting each other’s fingernails. Putting in hot rollers. Varnishing their lovely and plump lips. Playing the ancient game of paddy cake paddy cake baker’s man. They were doing all of this for a very good reason. The reason was that the Dolls (all 17 of them) had plans. Here is to what: a gallery opening. Here is why: because when you were a Doll (and not a slut or a Miss), you experience fine art. Someone gives you a coupe of champagne, and you stand in front of greatness and say, I’m really feeling a lot of things, man, I’m really feeling it all.

The gallery was in a very ancient part of New Yawk, New Yawk, called the Lower East Side. In those days, this area was ruled by a man they called the Catulus of Ludlow Street, and he was an absolute tyrant. Just a total bad vibes cunt. Rumors were circulating that he would often go to a gallery opening and talk loudly on his cell phone about various numbers and costs. That’s not going to sell, he would shout. Don’t be a little bitch. I’ve been in this industry for twenty years. It was almost certain that the Catulus of Ludlow Street would be there, at the gallery opening. And that when faced with this hardcore absolute tyrant, the Dolls would have to do feats of strength.

SP 9112 full
1 SP 9112 full
DSC5202
2 SP 9120 full
SP 9120 full

Merrily they rolled along over the hill and over dale. When you are a doll, you live a life oh so charmed. Everyone complimented the 17 girls as they walked alongside the East River in their frocks. They gave them roses and counsel and a carton of Marlboro Reds and a live chicken for slaughter. A wise man driving a car called a Nissan even rolled down the windows of his vehicle to show them his penis and asked if anyone wanted to get raped. The Dolls thought about this and decided that they had to get to the gallery soon, so there wasn’t any time for a rape. But they were delighted by all of this. They lit up the cigarettes from the carton, and sniffed the roses. The bravest of the Dolls, who used to go by the name Bethany, pulled a box cutter out of her pocket book and slit the chicken’sthroat so they could all be full of nutrients before they viewed the fine art. The chicken started to flap its wings wildly, and then slumped over cradled in used- to-be-named-Bethany’s arms, stone-cold dead. They lit a fire in a trash can to cook the chicken’s meat, then said a prayer:

Yummy Yummy
In My Tummy
This Chicken
Is really good
Does anyone have some BBQ sauce?

When they reached the gallery, the Dolls were met by an oracle wearing a pair of low-rise jeans and a whale tail. The Oracle was standing over an ancient plate called an iPad Pro, and you could see her whole butt crack. Are you on the list? Said the Oracle. Right now, it’s just for family and friends. The Dolls whispered amongst each other for a minute, and then used-to-be-named-Bethany walked back up to the oracle. Hey babe, said used-to-be-named-Bethany, part the red sea for us, won’t you? We’re the Dolls. The Oracle looked back at the ancient plate, furrowed her brow. I’m sorry, she said, I don’t see that name on the list.

A black car pulled up to the gallery and out popped a man talking on his cell phone. Manon, he said, addressing the Oracle, are you trying to turn away this much hot ass from the gallery opening? I’m the Catulus of Ludlow Street. Do as I say. I know all about the art world. The Oracle bowed her head and then allowed the Dolls to cross the threshold into the gallery, one of the most beautiful places they had ever seen. The Catulus of Ludlow Street hung up his cell phone call and gazed upon the most beautiful sight he had ever seen: 17 Dolls being convivial at a gallery opening. He went up to used-to-be-named- Bethany and offered her a card. Sex sells in the crazy town they call New Yawk, New Yawk, he said. The sun is always at high noon here, and a pretty young thing like you could really turn a trick or two. We’ll be in touch.

SP 9113 full
Aurel Schmidt (Canadian, b. 1982) is a New York-based mixed-media artist who infuses ordinary objects and contemporary lifestyles with an edge of grotesquerie, often featuring element of trash and garbage. Her next solo show will open at Gathering, London, in July 2023.
Sophie Frances Kemp is a Brooklyn-based writer, freelance journalist, creative consultant, and an adjunct professor in creative writing at Columbia.

IMAGE COURTESY: THE ARTIST