KALEIDOSCOPE #42 SS23 – ART ♥ MERCH
ISSUE 42 SS23
KALEIDOSCOPE's Spring/Summer 2023 issue launches with a set of six covers. Featuring King Krule, Takashi Miike, Popcaan, Jim Shaw, a report into the merchification of the art world, and a special insert by No Agency and Richard Kern.
Also featured in this issue: American novelist Emma Cline (photography by Caroline Tompkins and interview by Lola Kramer), a new series of drawings by Aurel Schmidt (words by Sophie Kemp), Japanese photographer Hiroh Kikai (words by Jeppe Ugelvig), Italian punk band CCCP (words by Achille Filipponi), and “Five NYC Painters” (paintings by Brook Hsu, Francesca Facciola, Michelle Uckotter, Olivia Van Kuiken, and Justine Neuberger, and words by Reilly Davidson).
FROM THE CURRENT ISSUE
2023 marks ten years since Archy Marshall, at only 18, released his debut album—howling, urban and desolate, preciously young, totally timeless. We find him now, a decade older, a father, having left his native London for Liverpool, and about to release his fourth studio work under the King Krule alias—one written on commuter trains, lingering in the “space between.”
Often shooting four or five films a year, Takashi Miike has characters that are, like his work rate, at once heroic and frightening. Over a career spanning three decades, he has gained a cult following, both in his homeland of Japan and internationally, as a filmmaker of the extremes of brutality, sex, and gore—a cinematic icon who still retains the ethos of the permanent outsider.
Since graduating from CalArts in 1978, Jim Shaw has eluded aesthetic typecasting by experimenting with almost every art form: drawing, painting, playing in punk bands, working in the movies, collecting ephemera, and chronicling his dreams. Through it all, he has forged an artistic career examining America—its iconographies, religions, psycho-geographies, and utopias.
The rise of museum and art gallery merchandise is unstoppable—the cumulative point of an economic and creative process that started with Pop Art. And as museum-going turns into a signifier of one’s inclusion in a global creative class compensating financial precariousness with good taste, the rule is simple: If you can’t buy the painting, why not get the T-shirt?
Undoubtedly the biggest dancehall star in Jamaica, Popcaan is also one of the rising pop stars in the world. Since his 2014 debut, he’s been the reigning king of the scene, exporting his sound around the world and collaborating with everyone from Jamie XX to Drake. His latest album, Great Is He, tells the rags-to-riches tale of his life.
Inaugurating a new carte blanche format “outsourcing” an editorial segment to like-minded global creatives, “Upstate” features original photography by Richard Kern and an essay by Olivia Khan-Sperling, within a special insert (cum folded two-sided poster) produced and designed by game-changing New York-based modelling agency, No Agency.
Famously concerned with the ways technology has affected human society, and the way human society has in turn used technology to reflect the ways it has changed, Jon Rafman has also explored the sublime, the uncanny, the ingenuity of human creativity, and the changing role of the artist. Presenting a new body of work generated with AI, here he reflects on building virtual worlds for the viewer to get lost within.
At the Ballet National de Marseille, collective (LA)HORDE are re-energizing the classical forms of the institution with what they’ve termed “post-internet dance.” Poetic, punk, optimistic, politically engaged, their work is rooted in the realities and dreams of the 21st century, looking to real people, real bodies, and the power of movement to break from the exclusionary rigidity of the ballet.
Imagining the interior lives of those maligned, canceled, and spurned, Emma Cline’s work as a writer is free of simplistic moralizing, instead interested in the stories we all tell ourselves and how we create our own personal delusions. With her recently released second novel "The guest", she delivers an already-classic exploration of class neurosis in late capitalist America.
Formed in Berlin by two Italians, CCCP was named for the Cyrillic spelling of the USSR, but pronounced in Italian: Chi-chi-chi-pee. Reaching beyond the simplicity of punk, but enamored with its nihilistic truth, politics and possibilities, they created a sound equal parts Soviet and Coca-Cola, avant-garde and folk.
Operating under the Crystallmess alias, Christelle Oyiri is a DJ, producer, and artist born and raised in Paris. Her work across mediums deals with post-colonialism and her experiences as a Black person in France, but also the exuberance, hope and joy of the community of the dancefloors.
Working as both an artist and a musician, Erwan Sene combines sculptures made of the detritus of everyday life with compositions that throb under the rhythmic weight of abstracted techno. Underpinning both practices is the idea of world building and the impenetrability of language.
Begun almost imperceptibly as an outgrowth of the work of its founder, Gregory Brooks, a designer and collector, RareBooksParis is part bookshop, part research project, part archive—a curated haven excavating modern and personal narratives within the history of fashion.
From June 22 to June 24 during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, KALEIDOSCOPE and GOAT presented the new edition of our annual arts and culture festival, MANIFESTO. Against the unique setting of the French Communist Party building, a modern architectural landmark designed by legendary Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, the festival will bring together visionary creators from different areas of culture across three days of art, fashion and sound.
FROM THE SHOP
In April 2023, a year after the launch of the magazine, Capsule introduced Capsule Plaza, a new initiative that infuses new energy into Milan Design Week by redefining the design showcase format. A hybrid between a fair and a collective exhibition, Capsule Plaza brings together designers and companies from various creative fields, bridging industry and culture with a bold curation that spans interiors and architecture, beauty and technology, ecology and craft.
1017 ALYX 9SM
In January 2023, KALEIDOSCOPE presented a solo exhibition by Houston-based artist Mark Flood (b. 1957), curated by Alessio Ascari, at Spazio Maiocchi in Milan. In his paintings, Flood deploys the detritus of contemporary culture—slogans, celebrities, logos, and memes—to mock American society and the elitist art world. The exhibition also provided the scenography for the runway presentation of the 1017 ALYX 9SM Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
FROM THE ARCHIVE